Paris in August
My Frankenstein tomato: Expertly stitched by Mother Nature herself.
Sunday mornings are my favourite day of the week, and I like to move slowly. I usually get up early but there's something I like about puttering around the house without an agenda on Sundays while G sleeps in. If it's raining, so much the better. For whatever reason, this Sunday, I left G dozing in bed and headed to the Raspail market in the 6th. It's organic on Sundays and because it was after 9am, I was expecting it to be bustling. But then I remembered: it's August, and nothing is bustling in Paris right now. The city is, comparatively at least, a ghost town.
My concierge informed me that every apartment in my building but 2 is currently empty. It seems everyone in France has a summer house and they high tail it out of here as soon as they can.
Needless to say, it has been very, very quiet.
It is a great time to be in the city-- to watch it sleep, so to speak, and to experience it in this rare sense of calm. There are tourists, but not many. Many of the shops are closed and you may have to find a new bakery to keep you stocked with baguettes until yours reopens at the end of the month. Sometimes you find yourself cursing at the inconvenience, but then you quickly realize that this temporary silence is well worth it.
I took a long walk after I'd filled my bags with strange tomatoes at the market. I stopped at a health food store to replenish my bulghur supply, headed for the best baguette in Paris only to find that the bakery was closed, and then headed to Alléosse to gaze at their world of cheeses and marvel still at how at this time of year I can walk in there and find the store empty of customers. I said hello and took my sweet, sweet time.
Cheese from Alléosse
front: Cabris Gors (goat cheese)
middle: Manchego
back: Cheddar fermier
I finally had to call it quits when I could feel a blister forming on the bottom of my foot and my watch told me that I had been walking for over 2 hours. I came home, kicked off my shoes and promptly took a nap. It was not even 11:30am, and I still had the whole quiet day to kill.
Without a doubt, Paris in August is so much better than Paris in July..
Raspail Market
Boulevard Raspail between rue du Cherche-Midi and rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes
Tuesday and Friday, 7 am to 2.30 pm
Sunday mornings--organic.
Labels: cheese, Paris, Paris bakeries, Paris food shops, Paris markets
posted by Michèle at 8:00 AM
15 Comments:
what a nice way to spend a lazy Sunday! boy, do I wish Osaka would be as calm on anyday!
Just Paris on any day!
I'd say that's a really great day.
Didn't I see that tomato on Nip/Tuck?
Well, thank god you are back in the world of food again. Jesus, the next time, don't let a bit of heat scare you off so easily.
Oh, ma chere Michele, your Sunday morning sounds so dreamy! Between your Sunday on the streets of Paris and David's Reine Claude plums, I'm feeling awfully jealous. Grrr.
P.S. LOVE that Frankenstein tomato! You're too funny.
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Your posts always make me homesick for Paris, even though I was only there for a month.
The Raspail market was my usual market, since it was a quick five-minute walk from my apartment. If there's an older lady selling quiche slices at the far North end, I highly suggest buying some. Absolutely fabulous...
K&S, it is definitely an interesting phenomenon to witness just how quiet Paris gets in comparison to its usual bustle. We actually moved here last year in the middle of it and were really confused at first as to what was going on!
Tanna, yes, I have to admit, I feel pretty grateful to be able to live here--sundays in general are great but sundays in Paris are pretty fantastic.
David, you might have. It could be less Frankenstein, and more Joan Rivers..
Cak, gee I seem to have stressed you out! The fall weather definitely gets me moving so have no fear. ;)
Molly, it was one heck of a sunday morning! Now I know you are a little preoccupied with your new roomate, but get your butt to Paris already! ;)
Paige, it doesnt take long for Paris to get under the skin though does it! A month surely would have done it. And yes, the lady with the quiches is there!
the cheeses look heavenly.. with a nice glass of wine and some dried figs. yummy
Cool tomato - how does THAT happen?
My first August here, I was completely shocked at the ghost town phenomenon I just couldn't comprehend. by the second year I was totally into it too!
Cheese, must buy some cheese.....
I love Paris in August, the quiet, no crowds. I get to do things I don't normally do, like drive and not fear of getting killed and take my time walking in the marchés with no elbows jabbing me nor toes run over by trolleys and little ladies.
Shaz, the cheese is great! and yes, a glass of wine will go with anything in my opinion ;)
Alisa, my thoughts exactly! I thought it was a very cool tomato.. G and I arrived in Paris in the middle of August last year and were very confused about why it was so quiet.. then when september hit and all the stores opened up we discovered all these shops that we didnt even know where there because the windows had been covered up..
LPC, yeah it is nice to enjoy the space--it makes it that much harder to adjust when September hits and you have to get back to line ups again. Oh well, I guess we'll have to enjoy it while it lasts huh ;)
Hello my dear! And here I was about to send you photos from my backyard potted garden; our tomatoes are starting to turn a lovely shade of red. Lo and behold, you tempt me with that gorgeous zebra striped one! Now add some tapenade and bread and we have the makings of another colourful lunch my friend! The cheeses look divine; what was your verdict on them?
How I wish I could take one of these strolls with you on a quiet Sunday!
Those are some absolutely stunning photos - I love the frankenstein tomato best ;) Despite the inconvenience, I'm glad you're making use of the lack of people around for your grocery needs :D
the best in In August in Paris is to have a vespa and to wonder in the empty streets of my unforgivable city.
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