12.11.2005

A butcher, a rooster, and an awkward moment


Coq au Vin

And then there was the time I decided to make Coq au Vin.

I picked out a fresh, plump chicken at the market and asked the butcher to cut it up for me because I was making Coq au Vin. I knew he would be charmed and impressed.
He told me that he had a coq if I wanted one.
A rather awkward pause followed.
Perhaps I'd been a bit too charming.
Finally I dared to look where this cheeky Frenchman was pointing.
And there it lay. A rooster, dead, in full form: head, eyes, wobbly red bits under its chin and on top of its head.
Oh. Right.
Coq=Rooster.
I quickly regained my composure and realized that to select the rooster would mean witnessing its decapitation. So, I politely declined, and urged him to proceed with the headless chicken I had already selected. But cock-a-doodle-do to you old boy, I thought. Or cocorico actually, since he was a French rooster, after all.

The making of the Coq au Vin began. Chopping, marinating, browning.
And then there was the part in the recipe where I had to add the cognac and light it on fire.
Yes, well.
Sometimes I forget about my own tendencies toward clumsiness.
But I do still have both my eyebrows and all of my eyelashes so have no fear.
The dish turned out wonderfully. There was endless dipping of bread into sauce, which had turned out rich and full of flavour, the addition of unsweetened cocoa powder adding to its deep, dark colour. The chicken was tender and falling off the bone.

I felt a little bit more French for having made this. I may even be ready to get myself a beret soon.

Coq au Vin
adapted from Saveur Cooks Authentic French, Chronicle Books 1999

1 roasting chicken, (up to 6 lbs) cut into pieces
2 large yellow onions, peeled and roughly chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
3 large cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
bouquet garni consisting of 3 thyme sprigs, 3 parsley sprigs and 2 bay leaves tied in a bundle
1 bottle good rich burgundy wine, plus 375ml water (or 1.5 bottles wine)
1/4 cup vegetable or canola oil
2 tbsp flour
1/4 cup good cognac
1.5 tb unsweetened cocoa powder
6 oz salt pork, diced (you can buy thick slabs of it, or use pancetta in the same form)
3/4 lb button mushrooms, cleaned and stems trimmed

Put first 6 ingredients (up to and including wine and water) in a large bowl. The recipe recommends you cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. I only did it for 4 and it was still great. But perhaps its even better if you go the full 24.

Remove the chicken from the marinade (don't discard the marinade) and dry the pieces well with paper towels. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in a heavy pan over medium high heat and brown the chicken on all sides. Do it in batches so as not to crowd the pan. Set the chicken aside when each piece is done browning.

Add flour to the pan and cook, stirring for about 2 minutes.
Return the chicken to the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the cognac and light it with a match until the flame dies out. Keep the pot lid nearby to extinguish the flames if necessary.
Return pan to heat and add the reserved marinade back in and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to low and simmer, partially covered about 1.5 hours, or until chicken is tender.

Remove chicken from pan again and strain the sauce through a sieve, discarding the solids. Return the sauce to the pan.
Put cocoa powder in a small bowl and whisk in 1/2 cup of the strained sauce until it is smooth. Stir it into the pan then reduce the sauce to about 4 cups, 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low and return chicken to pan.

In the meantime, saute the salt pork in a skillet over medium heat until crisp then remove from skillet, drain on paper towel, and add to chicken. Add mushrooms to the same skillet and saute until golden about 10 minutes. Drain and add mushrooms to chicken.Serve.

Recipe notes
-I omitted the mushrooms only because my boyfriend is not a fan of mushrooms. But the recipe would have been greatly enhanced by their addition. We were left with nothing but sauce and chicken which, although fantastic, could have benefitted from either mushrooms or carrots or even small new potatoes, to turn it into a well-rounded meal in itself.

-This recipe requires that you take the chicken out of the pan and put it back in over and over it seems. But in the end it makes sense. And it tastes really very good.

-If you are nervous about lighting the cognac or don't have any on hand, I think you would be ok to leave it out and just skip that part of the instructions.

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25 Comments:

Blogger Mona said...

Wow that is incredible. And the first coq online recipe I've noticed on a blog before. So cool. And good choice sticking to the already headless one :)

4:02 PM  
Blogger Clare Eats said...

LOL
That sure would have been an akward moment!
Your Coq au vin looks fabulous girl!
xxxx

5:09 PM  
Anonymous alisa said...

I'm smiling.
The post, everything about it, smiling.
Knowing that you had a few precious days and how happy you sound, smiling.
Realizing that acquaintance has moved into friend, smiling.
Hoping this makes a modicum of sense, smiling!

5:38 PM  
Anonymous paz said...

Get yourself that beret -- You've definitely earned it! ;-) Your meal sounds delicious -- rooster or chicken.

Paz

11:56 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Mona, thanks! Alot of the chickens they sell here still have the heads and feet on them, and some of them are still feathered.. It was weird to adjust to seeing that at first at the markets. And though Im getting used to it, I still couldn't actually watch them cut the head off!

Hi Clare, well I certainly have seen enough coq au vin recipes in my time but I had never seen one where a rooster was used. So silly me didn't make the connection, and just assumed it was always chicken. But now I know so there will be no more awkward pauses.

Hi Alisa, and thanks to you for letting me borrow your cookbook my dear. G was happy to be my taste tester this weekend ;)

Hi Paz, ok that's another vote for the beret. I'll have to put it on my xmas list ;)

6:41 AM  
Blogger 7jourssur7 said...

Mouthwatering food! Lovely post! One question about the photo: is that a Colombian pot I spy? I saw them in The Hague and thought about getting one but wasn't sure about the performance. What do you think? ~Jenn who felt really icky this morning, promptly called in sick, and so is now playing blog hooky at home

7:18 AM  
Blogger J said...

hi michele, that looks incredible...something tells me seeing how lovely it turned out with chicken, you'll be going the whole hog (or is it coq)? ;)

8:09 AM  
Blogger Nerissa said...

I really had to laugh when you described the awkward moment. I've had my share of intercultural word shocks myself.

I've been wanting for a while to make coq au vin for my Frog Fiance but have always been a bit wary of it. Doubt I'd be adding the cocoa, though. Food Nazi boyfriend might notice LOL

10:37 AM  
Blogger Molly said...

Michele, you're hilarious, ma cherie! Wonderful, witty post! And that coq au vin looks outrageously good. Glad to hear that you had an eventful--and delicious--weekend...

12:20 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Jenn, well you are going to make me admit that I borrowed that bowl from Alisa aren't you! My white bowls did not do the coq au vin justice.. brown against white, not pretty, not pretty at all..

Hi J, well I'm not entirely sure about that one. The roosters are much larger than I need to feed just my boyfriend and I. but maybe one day?

Hi DiningDica, oh sneak it in! He won't even notice, I promise! It calls for unsweetened cocoa powder so really it just adds colour and richness. You should definitely try making coq au vin if you've had the urge too, its very satisfying to have at least done it once. I was beaming with pride myself after that one!

Hi Molly, thank you darling. The coq au vin was a nice weekend project to welcome G home from his business trip. Thankfully he liked it too ;)

1:44 PM  
Blogger Melissa said...

One mans Coq is another mans 'Tire'. I can't say Tire in French without blushing and laughing.....get your Larousse out and crack up!
That recipe sounds great! I'm inspired!
(the other) Melissa!

2:18 AM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Melissa, wait! all the laughing is going on without me! I looked it up but its not in my dictionary as a noun and as a verb tirer just means to pull. What kind of cheeky dictionary have you got? I want a copy! ;)

1:32 PM  
Blogger Melissa said...

c'est pneu --- Is a 'tire' in French...I usually make it plural..then I blush!
hmmmmmm......it was early when I wrote you this A.M....I probably said it wrong!

1:39 PM  
Blogger michelle said...

my dear michele, buy your beret! i am so impressed! and glad to hear that you still have your eyelashes and eyebrows intact! that cheeky french cocorico was just wishing he could be sitting at your dinner table enjoying the headless coq you selected anyway. lucky man, G, to come home to that dinner! thanks for the giggles to end my day!

7:33 PM  
Blogger Rachael said...

So, it was more like poulet au vin - mole style. Any which way, it looks beautiful and sounds sensatitional. And I cannot stop laughing, thank you!

8:51 AM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Melissa, oh I was translating the wrong way! I got it now ;) But I am sick with a head cold this week so my mind is working very slowly!

Hi Michelle, ok, ok, I'll get the beret! And yes, G did enjoy it too, especially since I customized it without the dreaded mushrooms just for him!

Hi Rachael, you know I think you are right! Although it wasn't enough cocoa powder to make it taste chocolatey, it only thickened it and made it a nice deep dark brown colour. And I'm happy to make you laugh ;)

9:48 AM  
Anonymous Rorie said...

Absolutely - buy that damn beret! The photo is gorgeous and has inspired me to attempt coq au vin this weekend!

11:08 AM  
Blogger Nerissa said...

Hey Michele,

You're it. It looks like you haven't been tagged for the "Your Top Ten Favourite Foods" meme. I'm hoping to see what your favourite foods are. If you want to see what it's all about, see my own Dec. 14th post on this subject. Have fun! It drove me nuts paring it down ;-)

6:35 PM  
Anonymous Melissa said...

Hey you, at first I was disappointed that you didn't get the coq, but I think in your shoes I would have done the same thing. I get the creeps when I buy a chicken with the feet still attached! (luckily it's only happened once...)

This recipe looks really good, not to mention I'm particularly intrigued by the addition of cocoa powder - who woulda thought that is 'authentic French'???

7:54 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Rorie, ok it looks like I can't escape the beret buying now. :) I hope your coq au vin goes well this weekend, let me know how it turns out.

Hi DiningDica, thanks for the tag! Although I think someone has previously tagged me for this meme, which goes to show that I've got to get my butt in gear huh!

Hi Melissa, well next time you come to visit me we'll do it right! (or maybe not, we'll play it by ear ok?)
The recipe was great, and I agree about the cocoa powder, but it was a nice touch and you know the French are not afraid of trying any ingredients to make things taste good so.. am I stretching it a bit? ;)

7:26 AM  
Anonymous lydia said...

hi, i am a newcomer. this recipe looks marvelous. i am always looking for good ways to spice up chicken, as i usually have several frisky young coqs awaiting the chopping block. i am definately going to give this one a try when i "do" the next one. this probably sounds horrifying to you! i will post, though, my results when i try this recipe.

11:38 AM  
Anonymous lydia said...

one more thing. this recipe is perfect for roosters that have been running around for too long. the wet cooking method will smooth their stringy dry muscle fibers into lustrous moist meat. that is why there are so many traditional braising recipes, to deal with older animals. before industrial farming and refrigerations, farmers couldn't raise up lots of animals of the same age and slaughter them all at 12-ish weeks (as is the case for chickens). they could only slaughter as needed, which made for the eating of some less than tender older animals. so, recipes like these are perfect for people who raise their own flocks for personal consumption

12:03 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Lydia, Im glad you like the recipe! And no, it doesnt sound horrifying. My brother used to have his own chickens as well which ended up on the dinner table. And I had heard that about the coq au vin too, that they only used roosters when they had to, and that was why the long cooking time.
Im very glad that you found my blog, and I hope the recipe works out well for you if you try it!

5:30 AM  
Blogger The Yankee said...

I've made that exact recipe many times before and it is always delicious.z

10:25 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

My free range coq has become increasingly aggressive, attacking me from behind when I go out to gather the egss. This morning I swung at him with the lid of a trash can and he refused to back down! After reading your deliciuos and inspiring coq au vin recipe, I think it's time for him to hit the chopping block (but not in my presemce). I will post my results. clv

3:27 PM  

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