9.06.2005

A little wine, a lot of chocolate.. WBW13


Bourgogne Passetoutgrains and Chocolate Cheesecake
bites with a Chocolate Rosemary Ganache

When Clotilde announced the theme for this month's Wine Blogging Wednesday, my immediate thought was that there was no way I could participate. I moved to Paris 4 weeks ago and was dismayed to find that my apartment contained a stovetop, but no oven. No oven? That's right. No oven. That meant no more roasted chicken, no more roasted tomatoes, no crostini, no homemade pizzas and definitely no baking. I was ready to throw in the towel on food blogging.

As the WBW due date drew nearer I had resigned myself to the fact that I was just going to have to sit back and watch everybody else having all the fun. And then there was an email. Not just any email, but an email sent to a girl who knows what she's talking about when it comes to food, both savoury and sweet. I lamented, I complained. She read my tales of woe, but she knew that all was not lost just because I was ovenless.
And so began my no-bake-cheesecake experiment.

I browsed a number of recipes. A bit of tweaking, a dash of invention, (something I'm rarely comfortable with when it comes to desserts) and I ended up with these chocolatey little bundles. Chocolate cheesecake on top of a cookie base, covered with a chocolate rosemary ganache. And with G. away this week, there was nobody here to enjoy them but me. And perhaps that was a good thing. Because enjoy them I did.

The rosemary flavour in the ganache added a subtle and surprising mellowness. Next time I will steep the rosemary longer in the cream to allow the flavour to come through just a bit more.


Chocolate Cheesecake Bites with a Chocolate Rosemary Ganache

I popped the cork on my new wine, and there I was, chocolate and wine at hand, ready for an evening spent curled up on the couch with a good book.



The Wine
It is said that when pairing wine with chocolate, it is important to consider the cocoa content of the chocolate. The stronger the chocolate, the more full bodied the wine should be. A bittersweet chocolate would be complimented by a hearty Zinfandel. A Pinot Noir or Merlot is a good match for milk chocolates. At 52% cocoa content, the chocolate I chose fell into the semi-sweet category. It was not bitter enough for a Zinfandel, so I decided to try something from the Bourgogne region. A general rule is that the wine should be sweeter than the chocolate, so I thought perhaps I was playing it safe. Bourgogne Passetoutgrains are made with 2/3rds Gamay grapes, and only 1/3rd Pinot Noir grapes, although I did read that its possible that this ratio is not always adhered to. My particular bottle however, did indicate that this was in fact the ratio used. The Bourgogne Passetoutgrains appellation is relatively small so it is not as easy to find these wines as it is to find those of larger appellations.
Gamay grapes often have cherry and/or strawberry notes and are said to be good easy to drink table wines. It had a nice clear colour and a noticeable acidity which cut through the sweet richness of my dessert. It was an acceptable match with my chocolate, but not a particularly satisfying one.
I think I would try this wine again in another context to see how it fares. The back label recommends the wine with grilled meats and soft cheeses, such as Brie.



Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Maison Chandesais
Bourgogne, France
Grapes: 2/3rds Gamay, 1/3rd Pinot Noir
Mis en Bouteille
12% vol.
€3.15 for 375 mL bottle or approximately €6.00 for a 750ml bottle.

The Cheesecake
The cheesecake was an experiment of mine. I did not follow a specific recipe and only wanted to make as much as I could eat. A whole cake just wouldn't do when there was only me to eat it.
You can use your favourite cheesecake recipe to recreate the same thing.

100 g of cream cheese
1 heaping tablespoon of sugar
1 tablespoon of crème fraiche
approximately 3 oz of good quality chocolate, melted
Mix the first 3 ingredients together and then mix in the chocolate.

It turned out to be quite dense, almost like a thick mousse. I only added a tablespoon of sugar to 100g of cream cheese because I knew the chocolate would sweeten the mix. If you prefer something less dense, use whipped cream instead of the crème fraiche. Adjust amounts to your taste.

I scooped the mix onto the little cookies, smoothed it out as best I could, and after a cooling period in the refrigerator, covered each of them with the ganache.

Here is a link to Martha's No bake Chocolate Crust Cheesecake that you can use as a reference for an alternative cheesecake mixture, and also for a crust if you prefer that to using cookies.

The Chocolate Rosemary Ganache from www.mslo.com
Please note, that this amount of ganache is was way more than I needed, so keep that in mind when making your own. The instructions below are the method I used, click on link above to see Martha's full instructions.

Makes 1.5 cups
9 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary needles

Place chocolate in a medium heat-proof bowl. Warm cream with rosemary in small saucepan over low heat. Bring just to a boil. Strain cream over chocolate. Stir to melt all chocolate. Pour ganache over your cream cheese bites. Let cool in fridge or at room temperature.

The Cookies used for the base
Mère Poulard, Les Chocolatines du Mont Saint Michel
I would definitely buy these cookies again to use as my cheesecake base, but they were also equally delicious plain, straight out of the box. They were a thin cookie, the bottom of them showed that they were generously laced with tiny chocolate chips. The cookies had a very small crumb, crisp to bite into, but the rest was melt-in-your mouth. The only thing that comes to mind that is somewhat comparable in texture to the crumb of these cookies are the wafers on an oreo cookie.
I was happy to find that mine stayed crisp after a night in the refrigerator covered in my cream cheese mixture. Choosing these ones for my base had been a stroke of pure luck.


The Cookie Base

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24 Comments:

Blogger Paz said...

No bake cheesecake? "Cool and interesting," I think to myself at first.

"Super cool," I say allowed when I see the photos and see the recipe.

Your cheesecake bites with the chocolate rosemary ganache look really good.

Very interesting about the wine pairings, which I know nothing about....

Oh, I've been meaning to ask about Gabriel Garcia Marquez's "Living to Tell the Tale." How is that book?

Paz

4:18 PM  
Anonymous Tana said...

The lack of oven could easily be remedied with a convection toaster oven. I got one last month or so, and it's changed my life for the better. I roasted a chicken in it last night. I love love love my toaster oven.

I even interrupted my usual blogging (about small farms) to write it up here.

Your blog is beautiful, and I just subscribed via Bloglines.

5:39 PM  
Blogger Ana said...

Michele, it is our luck that you are without an oven (temporarily, I hope), if it makes you come up with these wonderful desserts. I'll have to try it. It is way too decadent.

10:36 PM  
Blogger Molly said...

Michele, these are brilliant! I read your post just before heading out to do some grocery shopping for dinner, and I was mightily tempted to try your recipe...until I remembered the fancy dipped chocolates I bought in SoHo this afternoon. I should eat those first, I suppose. Grrrr. Eating one thing at a time is such a drag! At any rate, could you say a bit more about the cookies you used? What were they like, texturally? If I can't find that brand here in the States, what type or style of cookie should I look for?

10:39 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Paz, Im glad they passed the cool test. :) Im not usually an inventor of desserts, so I was quite nervous about it! But being home alone this week I knew I didn't want a whole cheesecake sitting in my fridge taunting me all week long. And I dont know much about wine pairings either, but thats why I like participating in some of these events, it gives you an occassion to learn things you might otherwise not know. Oh and the book is amazing. Full of rich details, its hard to believe that its based on his real life. If you like G.G. Marquez, check it out, as it explains alot of the inspiration for many of his other books.

Hi Tana, thanks so much for the compliments. I have definitely had a convection oven on my mind, as I used to have one years ago. Although thankfully we are only in this apartment for 3 months, and Im determined that my next one will definitely have an oven in it.. Thanks again for visiting, and I look forward to checking out your blog as well!

Hi Ana, thank you. It was way too decadent! which is why I was glad I only made a little bit. But even that resulted in a bit of overindulgence, and I still have alot of leftover ganache to deal with. If it didn't taste so darn good right off the spoon.. :)

Hi Molly, thank you! Im glad you like them. Since I dont often make desserts I would love to hear what you think of the cream cheese mix if you do make it, and what if anything you would change. I feared that my tastes might run less sweet than most people's. As for the cookies, in my first draft of the post I had included that, somehow it didnt make the final post, so I have corrected that and added a brief description of them at the bottom. If I can think of any other product that I've tried in the states that might be comparable I'll send you an email.

1:16 AM  
Anonymous Beth- The Zen Foodist said...

Wow, you found a creative and apparently delicious solution to the problem of not having an oven. The recipe you created is really sophisticated and original. I could see it Bon Appetit or Gourmet magazine. I'm impressed!

2:35 AM  
Blogger amylou said...

Wow, Michele, I'm not usually big on cheesecakes but these look delicious. And they're so cute. I bet they'd go great with baninis!

5:03 AM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Beth, thank you! im happy it turned out so well, considering my general lack of experience in dessert making. But since moving to Paris my sweet tooth is definitely starting to make itself noticed.. :)

Hi Amylou, its actually been a long time since i've had a cheesecake-ish type dessert myself. I should have snuck a slice of banini right in the middle, that would get the little fellas the appreciation they deserve :)

5:25 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love those biscuits, with salted butter (of course!). Nice article and pairing notes.

David

http://www.davidlebovitz.com

6:56 AM  
Blogger Pille said...

Michele - these mini chocolate cheesecakes sound divine!!! I'm also very uncomfortable with recipe tweaking when making desserts, but you've just shown the light..

7:04 AM  
Blogger Clare Eats said...

*Bravo*!!!!
You did a fab job there Michele :)

So cute, tempting and *sigh & drool* worthy :)

You do realise that once you start playing like that it will never end... just keep growing and getting worse....
:P

9:22 AM  
Blogger tara said...

I absolutely don't have the time to be doing this (surreptitiously checking on your blog at work) - but I HAD to comment on these gorgeous little babies. Absolutely perfect, and what a lovely interpretation of the WBW event. I love the savoury note of rosemary with the chocolate - it inspires so many other ideas; earl grey tea, cinnamon ... I can't wait to try these out!

10:38 AM  
Blogger Melissa said...

Beautiful, I hate to think what you could do with an oven. WOW!
Melissa

1:32 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi David, I'm glad to hear you like those cookies too.. To tell you the truth, that box did not last long in my apartment. I think I'll have to explore the Mere Poulard range, although that could be dangerous.. Especially if I start adding salted butter :)

Hi Pille, well once in a blue moon I get some motivation and confidence to tweak. This time Im happy that it worked out, because it doesnt always :)

Hi Clare, thank you ! Its very nice to get this kind of encouragement. But you're right, I feel I've just raised the bar on my cooking, so I'll have to try to live up to future expectations... mmm, this might be tough :)

Hi Tara, Im so glad you like them! The rosemary did get me thinking too about other things that could be used to flavour the chocolate. The rosemary was fantastic though, definitely try that first. And I completely encourage stolen moments at work to check out blogs.. really, if you think about it, the odd diversion only helps you to concentrate on your work for the rest of the day, and thus makes you a better and more effective employee. ;)

Hi Melissa, well truthfully I rarely bake sweet things, but of course now that I dont have an oven Im thinking about all the desserts I could have been making..Its always the way, isnt it :)
And being in Paris has really got me craving sugar, so I'll have to invent something else no-bake very soon!

2:04 PM  
Blogger Zarah Maria said...

Sounds and looks divine Michele! I'd gobble them all up in one sitting, I'm sure!

3:58 PM  
Blogger Chubby Hubby said...

Hiya, what a yummy photo of the wine with the cheesecakes blurred in the background. The no-bake cakes sound delicious. Too bad the wine pairing wasn't perfect. I've always been a huge fan of pairing chocolate with a nice Rose Champagne.

2:30 AM  
Blogger kitchenmage said...

the cheesecake bites sound wonderful, and i love herbal infusions in unexpected places... i'll have to try the rosemary chocolate pairing...

5:06 AM  
Anonymous Melissa said...

Michele, what can I add to these mountains of adoring praise being heaped upon you? You are obviously a girl who thrives on a challenge, and I dare say the lack of an oven has brought out the culinary genius in you! I have to congratulate you on these photos, which are all superb, and your very inspired and tempting recipe for rosemary chocolate cheesecake that has me drooling every time I think about it. Must...make...!

11:44 AM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Zarah Maria, that is precisely why I wanted to make them in a small quantity! I would hate to have a whole cheesecake in my fridge taunting me for days to come.. these little ones didn't last long at all!

Hi CH, thanks for the compliments on the photo! I'll have to try a rose champagne next time. Any excuse to buy champagne works for me!

Hi Kitchenmage, definitely try the rosemary and chocolate, it was a wonderful combination, and it certainly gets you thinking about other unusual things you could put together.. I will definitely use it again!

Hi Melissa, thanks for the compliments, oh how you make me blush :) I would never have thought I was a girl who thrives on a challenge but it seemed to turn out that way this time! With a little help from you and Martha of course :)

3:08 PM  
Blogger Mona said...

Wow, those cheesecake bites looked amazing. I found a comment of yours on "mahnbanlieu" and wanted to see what yours was all about. I used to live in Chatou, FR a long time ago..what brought you to Paris? I miss it so much. I really enjoyed your pictures, I think I need to start using my camera to improve the look of my blog.

11:31 AM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi Mona, thanks for stopping by! Im glad you enjoyed the pictures, Ive been inspired by many other people's blogs to pay attention to how my pictures look.. although of course sometimes Im lazy and not all of them turn out so well :) but if you like photography it can be a great way to practice!
My boyfriend and I are in Paris because of his job, and I am happily following along and hoping to find a job for myself soon.. keeping my fingers crossed anyway :)

12:17 PM  
Blogger J said...

hi michele, those chocolate cheesecake bites look beautiful - the rosemary does sound like it adds mysterious depth to the ganache...gorgeous...

2:54 PM  
Blogger Michèle said...

Hi J, thanks! I was very surprised by how subtle and delicious the rosemary was. I definitely recommend that chocolate lovers give it a try!

12:26 PM  
Blogger julietgb said...

What a fantastic idea!!!
This simple and delicious chocolate cheesecake made me wanna do something as simple as this. So... I bought some fresh raspeberries and blackberries, a small pack of Philadelphia cheese and in my kitchen were some fantastic chocolate chip chocolate cookies.
I've made the best dessert, only for me, of course, with this simple ingredients. I've mixed the cheese with some sugar, added raspberries, mixed with a fork for a while and spreadded over the cookie. Two raspeberries and one blackberry on top, maybe some other cookie covering the fruit... and that's it. The best dessert!!
Wow! Thank you for the inspiration.

1:10 PM  

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