How I lost my mind in Paris..

My new Asterix PEZ dispenser
Paris is killing me. I assure you that I mean this in a good way. There are endless discoveries to be made and I am at a loss in deciding what to focus on. So for now, you'll have to bear with me while I give you a little bit of everything. I will expand on some of these finds in future posts, but for now I think this adequately reflects the state of mind I currently find myself in.
My day on Wednesday (or was it Tuesday?) started out fairly innocently. I should have been job searching, but it's hard to suppress my wanderlust. No, not just hard, impossible actually.
Avoiding that which I should have been doing, I decided to make a trip to the Galeries Lafayette, a large department store in Paris, to see what all the fuss is about. I admired its stunning stained glass and steel dome, and gaped at the purses, the shoes, the scarves, and the lingerie. Kudos to the French on the lingerie. They really know what they are doing. I left with a naughty little bundle.
I then moseyed (yes, the walk changed once that bundle was in my possession) over to their gourmet food shop. I was not as dazzled as I had been on my first trip to La Grande Epicerie de Paris. It has a very nice selection, but it was lacking a certain je ne sais quoi. Perhaps it was the low ceilings. A girl is more inspired to shop in a lofty space. Yes, I know that I'm already well on my way to becoming a spoiled brat.
I wandered the aisles and came upon a Hediard boutique franchise. Hediard is famous for its chocolate, so I bought a jar of jam. Figue de Provence, as a matter of fact. I felt as though I was defying the masses by not buying the chocolate and it made me feel good for a moment. I regretted it later.
(More jam tasting is required before I can provide a final verdict. It was runnier than I expected so I need time to adjust.)

Confiture Figue de Provence
As I made my way to the checkout, I was momentarily sidetracked by the sight of the Pain aux olives at the Eric Kayser bakery. I couldn't just leave it there, could I? (It more than lived up to my expectations, it was delicious. Just look at all those happy little olives in there. And happy olives make for a happy me.)

Pain aux olives
I hopped on the metro and headed across the river to St. Germain-des-Prés. It was hot and I was already sweaty and tired. I took a familiar walk down the Rue de Seine towards a shop named J.S.F.P Traiteur, that I am continually drawn to. I wandered in, feeling my stomach growl. I already knew that I liked their couscous and thought it would be so much easier to buy it again than to make something for myself for lunch. So, I asked for a small container, oh and one of those pretty little quiches on the side. I took the liberty of calling it my "emergency quiche". After all, there was no telling how hungry I'd be once I got home after all this walking around.

Couscous

Quiche à l'ognion
I headed back towards Notre Dame in the direction of home. Before crossing the river, I stepped into Shakespeare and Company, a rather well-known bookstore, run by an eccentric, 91 year old American fellow who I had seen on a previous day puttering around in front of the shop in his pyjamas, fretting about a missing ladder. The shops shelves are packed with books, new and used, there is not an empty space in the room. I couldn't resist buying a copy of A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway.
(The book was read front to back that very same night.)

Shakespeare and Company
I crossed over onto Ile de la Cité and found a bench for a much needed rest. Shopping is hard, hard work.

I continued back up to rue St. Antoine for the final leg of my journey home. Along the way I stumbled upon a shop called A L'Olivier that I hadn't noticed there before. After Melissa raved about her olive jam, I could not resist it when I spotted a jar of Olive and Fig Jam. Yes, I had conveniently put it out of my mind that I had just bought a jar of fig jam. But you can never have too much fig jam. Can you? All told, I walked happily out of there with a jar of Delice d'Artichauts, a jar of Confiture Olives et Figues and a bar of olive oil soap. By now I was close to home, so I didn't have far to carry the extra packages. See? I'm always thinking.

I passed by Paul, a bakery that has several locations in the city that seem to be always overflowing with people. I had a fleeting thought that it would be nice to pick something up for a late afternoon coffee break. I wandered in and bought 2 caneles. They were small and looked so very charming, and I had never had one before. So why not?
(From what I gather, a canele is a small cake invented in the last century by the sisters of the Sainte-Eulalie convent in Bordeaux. They are flavoured with rum and vanilla and baked until slightly caramelized. The inside of them was a surprise to me. Very moist and dense. I enjoyed it thoroughly. I will definitely purchase them again, although I will try a different bakery for the sake of comparison.)

Canele's from Paul Bakery
I was just about to cross the street when I decided to visit my local cheese shop, Fromager Pascal Trotte. I stepped in and admired the fresh, raw milk cheeses, many of which I had never even heard of before. I couldn't resist the cute little fig shaped one with its equally cute name, Figuette, and a much larger one called Merle de Blanc.
(Both turned out to be delicious. Merle de Blanc especially good for taking a big slice off and making a grilled goat cheese sandwich with tapenade or sun dried tomato pesto spread on the inside of the bread. )

Figuette and Merle Blanc goat cheeses
I realized, as my apartment building came into view, that I may have overdone it. I was never so sure of that as I was when I got home, unloaded my purchases, and discovered that I had completely forgotten all about the Asterix PEZ dispenser that I had also purchased that day.
And suddenly it was clear. I'm in Paris, and I have completely lost my mind.
Addresses are provided where a website could not be found
J.S.F.P Traiteur
8, rue de Buci, 75006
(they also make a great take home roasted rosemary chicken, which is a godsend for me, the girl who moved to Paris and discovered her apartment had a stovetop but no oven. The horror I tell you. The horror.)
Fromager, Affineur Pascal Trotte
97, rue St. Antoine, 75004
A L'Olivier
23, rue de Rivoli, 75004
Labels: Paris

14 Comments:
Just keep walking, and keep writing! We love it, and......
Welcome to Paris!
Melissa
Oh my goodness. I'm sure that the walking is counteracting all the lovely food - don't hold back, how else can I live vicariously through you (because, you know it's all about me). How gorgeous everything looks, especially the bread. It looks even better than you'd described (as you know, my weakness). And the fig jam - you could do a lovely breakfast tartine along with your goat's cheese ... on nut bread would be perfect. Oh, and if I haven't gushed enough, how I loved Asterix when I was little!
You have no oven? Oh my! I understand your pain my dear! All that lovely food and you can't bake! You will have to go and get an enamelled cast Iron caserole dish le cresuset or Staub immediately my dear.... I am only thinking of you.. how will you survive the winter with out a coq au vin or ratitouile orbouf bourginone..... no no no this wont do :)
Did you know I was already jealous? How far are you willing to push my green eyed monster? But please don't stop :) This was the best post of the month :) of course we are only 3 days in.....
I love reading about your discovery of Paris. One day I intent to visit it and it will be nice to have some reference points.
Your posts are always so wonderful to read! I'm planning a month-long trip to Paris next spring, and I have a feeling that your blod will be one of my main resources for planning my wanderings. Your pictures are fantastic, and all the shops mouthwatering.
hi, what a lovely lovely post...eric kayser does make the the most wonderful artisanal loaves...sounds like you're having a ball ;)
Hi Melissa, thanks so much for the welcome. It's nice to come upon a fellow blogger in the city. I look forward to reading through your blog!
Hi Clare, thanks for thinking of me, you are a dear :) Although the good news is that we are only in this apartment until november, so we will find another one after that and I will be sure it has an oven. Since we were only renting over the internet we didnt want to commit to anything for a long time without seeing it first! So now that we are here we can find an apartment that suits us, with no surprises. In the meantime, Im going to have to get very creative... Or I'll just have to keep buying all those lovely prepared foods I keep finding around Paris.. :)
Hi Ana and Paige, Im glad that you are enjoying reading my posts and that you find them helpful. I will be creating a page with a list of the places that I've mentioned (and liked) so that its easier to find that info should you decide to make a trip to Paris. Thank you very much for your encouraging words, both of you!
Hi J, thanks, I was very happy to stumble upon the bakery, and I will definitely go back there. I am enjoying myself very much, if not a little too much with respect to food :)
Wow, and to think you've only just scratched the thin coating of lacquer that coats the surface of all there is to discover in Paris... Everything sounds and looks so delicious. I'm amazed you haven't just gone into sensory overload and collapsed from all the fabulous food finds! I think your idea of a page listing all your discoveries in Paris is a great idea, everybody loves getting tips from a local! Btw, I'm really curious about your fig and olive jam - was it good?
I am completely green with envy. Of course discovering Paris takes precedence over finding a job! Please keep walking for the sake of the rest of us.
Hi Melissa, believe me that is why its so overwhelming! at every step there is a new bakery window taunting me, not to mention the cafes and restaurants. How will I ever get to them all? And yes, I have already gone into sensory overload, cant you tell by my post? :) And the fig and olive jam is delicious! I really like the combination. I would love to know what you think.. I may have to send a jar your way..
Hi S, thanks! if only I could get paid for wandering around Paris aimlessly, I'm sure I would be at the top of my field :)
Hi there!
I love your Asteri pez dispenser.
Hmmm... I like couscous and would love to taste the one, as well as the quiche, you ordered.
I'm not a shopper (you're right, it is hard work!)but I have now problem shopping for books. Don't let me loose in a bookstore. How was Hemmingway's "Movable Feast?" I may get it and add it to my to-be-read pile.
Ummm... I think I'd like a taste of the canele, too. ;-)))
No oven?! Goodness gracious! So, what will you do or what can you do?
Keep giving us "a little bit of everything" of your Parisian experiences. Love it!
Best,
Paz
Hi Paz, thanks, I like the little pez man too! And no, I dont have an oven! but we are only in this apartment until november, so i will make sure the next one does have an oven.. I was quite surprised when I got here and made that discovery.
Im also crazy about books, I love having a fresh new one to read. A Moveable Feast is a great book, I'll send you an email about it :)
Bienvenue à Paris!
About Eric Kayser breads, can I suggest his fig loaf which is one of my favorite with foie-gras.
Hello Aude, thanks for stopping by. I will definitely look for the fig loaf, it sounds delicious!
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